Mongs contact information if you are looking for an experienced reliable guide when you visit Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Mong Powers was our tuk tuk driver, guide and angel when we were in Phnom Penh in June 2009. He can also organize tours to other areas of Cambodia and Vietnam.
His contact information is….
tel: (855) 92839973 / 11497297
To see photos and read more about our week click here…..
Vanna sent me such a sweet response to my letter of thanks for our visit to the Harpswell dormitory in Phnom Penh. I am sure she is alright that I share it with you…
Dear Sister Kirstie,
It was wonderful day of our leadership talk, the girls gained a lot experiences from you and your team. For me the event was so much inspired to my soul,, the way that you and your team dance tell me about the real human life, we are human some time fell happy, very very happy, angry, sad, power, less power and the end human need to have freedom. It was really leadership show or I can say life skill show. It was touch me very much. And I am very much like the music, the music compositor kind of deep understand the real human life.
I am happy and welcome the word you call me “Sister”, and I count you my SISTER too.
Sister Kirstie, I thing your though to about me to talk with the SU at the US is pretty good, but I am not sure that my English could make the US people complete understand.
Please feel free to talk with me all things that you want to share, I am happy to listen and share with you as much as I can.
I am apology for not replied you on time, because a little bit busy.
Your Sister Vanna
Wednesday July 1st
Puglia, Southern Italy
Sorry it has been SO long since I last wrote.
Leaving Cambodia seems like a life time ago, and yet I also feel as if the whirl wind transition which took me back to Taipei for 1 night, to London for 1 night and then here to Southern Italy has given me NO time to process all the AMAZING things that happened there. All I know is that I am already planning a return trip.
So here we are – Renay, Laura and I in the middle of rural souther Italy in a region called Puglia, near Ostuni, in the heel of Italy. We are living in a place owned by Robert and Pia. They are both involved with theater, and they have a gorgeous place surrounded by olive groves, with an indoor studio, and outdoor stone amphitheatre and a large dance floor in an outdoor space next to a pond.
I have invited 15 dancers from all over Europe and the world to come and dance together in this idylic spot.
We start the day with 1/2 hour of meditation led by Pei Pei from Taiwan. Then breakfast, followed by yoga for 1 hr, and then a practice called Authentic movement which is almost like movement meditation. It’s very simple yet complex to explain right now. We do this outside in the nature with the 3 dogs running around, the sun beating down fairly strongly, so shady places are sought out. It’s a nice way to begin moving and takes place with one or more of the movers closing their eyes, while another ‘witness’ takes care they don’t encounter any danger during the 20 minutes they spend moving with eyes closed. There I have explained it a little.
Following this session we have lunch outside on a long table under the trees.
We take some hours siesta time, or going to the beach or to Ostuni to the internet (where I am now).
Around 6pm we start our evening dancing session outside on the big floor in nature. It’s cool enough by then to be dancing under the sky. Actually the weather has been strangely stormy with some rain which is most unusual for this time of year.
In a word we are having an incredible time together.
Mei and Ru-Hong (who were with us in Cambodia) are now in Hong Kong where Mei is performing a duet performance this week. What a small world we all inhabit now!
Here is a description that Simon Ellis wrote of our dance session the other night… Simon is one of the people who is with us this year. He came last year also to Syros, the island in Greece where we got together last year.
This is the fourth year we have gathered together in this way. It is a time for us to enjoy dancing and talking together. It’s a joy to be able to do this when most of us are very busy throughout the year teaching and trying to survive.
Here is Simon’s entry from his blog…..
I am sitting here watching solos and duets.
Anka and Laura are currently dancing. There is a dog close by.
The sun is going down.
Dorothy and Armand are playing.
I am finding no time to write during the day, and feel a little rude writing as these people are moving/dancing.
The space is open. A floor placed on rough grass, it’s taped together a little haphazardly.
Now Alvero is at the far edge, watching Anka who is sitting on a wall out the back.
The dissolution of the floor into the background – no walls – is important. The dancing can keep going on and on into the background.
Now the white dog is biting Alvero.
It is hard to compete with him that’s for sure.
Anka is making her way back to the space.
Kirstie is smiling.
Everyone is laughing.
The white dog is having the time of its life.
Improvisation never looked like this at all.
Alvero is soloing.
He is off balance. Rhythms with his feet.
An air drum solo.
The white dog wants to play, and is barking.
Alvero drives him off.
There is a sense of an event. It is very very strong.
A fig tree in the background.
Armand is picking up the rhythm.
We are now performing. There is no doubt about it.
The feel of the space is so different in solos and duets. There is an audience, and there are performers.
Kirstie is now soloing.
It is a little Spanish. Hips moving. fingers arced into the sky.
She is looking away from us – -away away. A chainsaw in the distance. The rumble of thunder.
The density of information is intense (as it has been all week).
Shoulders lift, fingers flick away, her gaze is close by, and down. Playing a little with the rhythm, pushing the air away from her.
Doll like now. Spirit fingers.
Peipei enters the space.
And Mikka. His eyes are closed.
She is perched on one leg – arm outstretched.
There is quiet in the room.
White dog is back.
Peipei in full backbend, fingers tickling the air.
And now the floor.
Mikka’s eyes are opened by her noise, and play.
He remains quiet, responding to what is in the space? Arcing his body, tilting, feet in fourth.
Peipei is able to see away – the space is not simply here. It extends beyond the dance floor.
Dorothy and Armand are playing Chinese sounding tunes. Well, I think so.
Now M and P have descended into narrative. It’s hard not to.
We are watching very closely — checking the space.
They are responding directly to each other — P’s tongue being a little naughty. She is tough. Knowing. Confident.
Here is Renee.
Looking for a partner?
She is smiling. Shoulders wriggling.
Lilting … playful, staying close to A’s cello/bass.
Released … winding, unwinding, staying with the tunes still.
To see more on Simon’s blog and photos of this most wonderful place click on……
Will try to be in touch soon.
Believe it or not it’s harder to be in communication by internet here than it was in Cambodia!
Hmmmm….. til soon, Kirstie
Tuesday 23rd June
In the morning we went to a gallery in Phnom Penh to see an exhibition of photographs of a very well known housing project that is under threat of being torn down. It houses some of Phnom Penh’s poorest inhabitants. Many of the students (that you see in the photos) that attend music and dance classes at Cambodian Living Arts live in that building.
Mei and I went with Mong to pick up some copies that Fred Frumberg had made for us of an Asian Pacific dance newsletter containing information about the connections between many countries in Asia including Cambodia, India Malaysia, New Zealand, Taiwan, Australia, Hong Kong and others. It’s wonderful to get a perspective on what’s going on in the East in the dance scene. It would be incredible to have some kind of gathering of dance people from East and West. This is something to seriously consider for the future. A huge project, but a very exciting one. Hmmmmmmmm .. food for thought. Perhaps a wonderful thing to do to show our solidarity and to tell the world how much dance and dance practitioners have to offer to the world at this point in time.
We also bought Mong a very nice white shirt as a present for looking after us so well during our stay here. If anyone comes to Cambodia we have Mong’s e-mail address and we can highly recommend him as a safe and big-smiling companion during your stay. He told us he drives his tuk tuk in the ‘countryside’ style. The village where he lives is just outside Phnom Penh. And it’s true, we noticed that his style of driving is much less aggressive than many of the drivers in the city. You have to be a little pushy as most people seem to take NO notice of any kind of rules on the road. As we said before cross roads are a free for all, and bikes, tuk tuks, motor bikes, cars, busses and lorries are all looking for space to cross. It’s an insane and somewhat intimidating choreography. But don’t let this put you off in any way. It’s a reflection of the way things happen around here, and because of this there is plenty of room for exciting adventures to happen. Our trip developed through being here, and connecting with different people. One thing has led to another. If you stay open, alert and ready there are worlds of experience to be had.
I highly recommend a trip to Cambodia to everyone!
In the afternoon yesterday we taught a 2hr workshop to the staff of the 3 Boddhi Tree Guest houses. Manuel the owner organized it for his staff.
We taught on the wooden stage of Savanna Phun (where we saw the shadow puppet performances). We got there before they arrived and cleared away the red ants that seemed to be making some kind of nest on the stage! It was hotter than you can believe and we were extremely surprised when a group of 20+ people ranging in age arrived. When we sat and introduced ourselves it was also surprising to see that everyone in the company from the house keepers to the assistant manager, the book keepers, the chefs and the restaurant staff came!
We did a demonstration of improvisation for them, and then we invited them to do some stretching, some Tai Chi and partner exercises including handstands and cartwheels, partner stretching, simple lifts and ended with nice relaxing body work . They were all extremely game and gave everything a try. Seeing as none of them were dancers they did brilliantly and much of what we did was alien to them and their culture. They all seemed very happy by the end as were we.
After the workshop Mong picked us up and took us to a spa in town where Manuel had booked all 5 of us in for a 1 ½ hr massages! What a treat, and a PERFECT way to end our trip.
Feeling relaxed and fully satisfied we went to a local restaurant that Mong suggested called Boat Noodle. We invited him to dinner with us, joking that it was Mong and the 6 ladies, which was met with a HUGE smile. Of course we plied him with a thousand questions. He told us that he would LOVE to start a business of his won, a restaurant.
We gave him his shirt which he said he would open when he got home.
Another FULLY SATISFYING day in Phnom Penh!
Our final morning. I was up early enjoying the morning fresh air, before the heat descends! The black cat always pays me a visit in the morning. He guards the guest house. He must be a good fighter because one of his ears had had a severe battering. But he is in reality a TOTAL softy!
I just got a text from Manuel saying that the staff were delighted yesterday. This morning they are greeting us with added warmth. They are always warm and friendly but today they are brimming with smiles and ‘did you sleep well?’ and so on. What a beautiful race.
We have been delighted in turn to be able to dance with them. Manuel said that perhaps next time I can be a resident at the guest house and can give the staff regular classes in ‘the beauty of moving ones body to music’. Sounds good to me. I think I will change my class description to this title, except I would add ‘the beauty of moving ones body to music, and to the silence’. Have to work on that one a bit but it has great potential.
SO the last fw thigns to do this morning and then Mei, RuHong and I are Taipei bound. Laura, Renay and Ya-Ling have one more night and leave tomorrow. Ya-Ling does back to Singapore where she has another month of research, before she returns to Taipei. Renay and Laura head for Rome.
I have one night in Taipei, the next night in London and the following day I leave for Italy, to a region called Puglis in S Italy where the next stage of our adventures begin. Sadly Mei and RuHong will not come to Italy this year. Mei has a perrformanc ein Hong Kong in a week’s time and then she heads off to Colorado to a summer dance festival, taking some of her students from Taipei.
Renay, Laura and I will see each other in La Luna nel Pozzo where we will spend the next week dancing, dialoguing, eating, swimming together with a group of 16 international dancers and improvisers. 2 musicians Dorothy and Armand will be joining us from the University of Illinois, so we will be having some more joyous and fascinating exchanges. WE ARE SO LUCKY!!! AND WE MUST NEVER FORGET THIS FACT.
The White Building
The lovely house maid at Boddhi Tree Umma
Beautiful Buddha statue at National Museum
Statue of female in National Museum
Water lilly in the garden of the National Museum
Some of the staff at Boddhi Tree Umma guest house (the one in front was our main man in the workshop!)
Young audience at the shadow puppet performance
Young Art students
After yesterday how could things get any better? Yet here in Cambodia each adventure leads to the next, and each one brings more heart ache, in the most human and positive sense, encouraging the heart to be pried open little by little.
Today we visited the art school in Phnom Penh where they have 4 years of study. The students don’t have to pay to go to the art school, and they are free to come and go as they wish. They study half the day at school and then come to the art school in the afternoon, so there are students at the school ranging in age from 13 – 27.
Their classes vary from traditional Cambodian painting to modern art and also video.
They have just a couple of teachers on salary. Once again it is very rudimentary.
We saw some examples of paintings done by a 14 year old that were incredible.
As with all the other foundations and schools we have visited in Cambodia this year has been very hard for them because of the global financial troubles. It seems the art school just manages to keep going through private donations.
In Cambodia there is no such thing as governmental support for the arts at all. The only institutions that are supported are the universities.
Painting done by a 14 year old
Young art student
Art history teacher, and man that showed us around the school
We then visited Cambodian Living Arts for the second time to watch a music class.
We met one of the women Masters, the assistant Masters and some of the young students playing the traditional instruments. One of the girls translated our questions and told us about their music and the instruments. Her English was very good. We bought some of the CDs that the center produces of the Masters that teach there.
It seems this Master was one of the first women to become an accomplished traditional musician, and she is now teaching the next generation.
Master teaching the young boy on the big drums
Master and students at Cambodian Living Arts
More photos to follow tonight
At 4pm we went by tuktuk with faithful Mong, to an organization called Tiny Tunes. We arrived and walked into a place that was full of children of all ages practicing hip hop and break dancing to the beat of American style music. It was extremely hot and humid when we arrived and there was something incongruous about hearing the hip hop beat in this country. We sat down on the tiled floor feeling damp, sticky and dirty, which is something you get used to here in Phnom Penh, with the young people who were practicing their dance together, spinning on their heads, on their backs, on their arms, on their feet. In a word doing the most incredible and dangerous looking steps and acrobatic moves. Let’s say that I would not risk that kind of movement on the hard tiled floor. In the middle if the scene we saw KK – it was hard to tell his age but we found out later that he was only 32. Dressed in typical street gear, tattooed all over, and very concentrated on what was occurring within the circle of dancing.
We watched the dancing for an hour at least, and then KK suggested he show us round the building, that turned out to have a sound studio, a room where a DJ was training a young Cambodian man, a computer room, and a couple of class rooms. Some 8 children lived there permanently, and during the day the place is a school for the children, and in the evening it is a break dance and hip hop school. As I write this I realize you will have a very different image of the facilities as I try to describe them. In actuality it was all very rudimentary, old computer screens, very basic wooden desks and benches, little or no decoration, but clean and tidy.
KK told us his whole story.
KK in red hat and sweat pants with kids
KK and students at Tiny Toones in Phnom Penh
Hearing KK’s story upstairs in the classroom
He was a Cambodian American living in L.A. until about 5 years ago when he was deported from the US for gang related violence. He told us he had spent 11 years of his life in prison in the US. It seems he was in prison from the age of 16. (I remembered I had read an article about him in a magazine in the US)
When he came to Cambodia he changed his life. He began to help the poor street kids, first of all through another aid organization. Gradually, as the kids found out he could dance hip hop and breaking, they begged him to teach them.
There are now 7 such centers for street dance in Phnom Penh that he heads, and 5000 street kids are involved. He told us about how he changed his life. We asked about the effect this has had on his old friends and gang members in L.A.
He told us how in the gangs, he saw that the older members used the young kids to perpetrate their violence. He called them fakes. He told us how he had come to see that violence doesn’t work. We stood around him in the upstairs classroom as he talked in the gathering darkness. It was so deeply moving to see his vulnerability and absolute honesty. There was a great deal of love that emanated from him as spoke. I actually couldn’t believe what was happening, and the situation that had developed. This tough looking tattooed individual that could appear to be quite intimidating, was infact a soft and loving man. He also told us that he feared for his life always, because he knew there were people who wanted to prove themselves through bringing about his death. He said that he accepted all of this as his lot.
He had adopted and 4 year old boy whose parents were heavy drug users. And his whole life is now dedicated to helping the street children. To see someone who had transformed their life in this way made me want to bow down before him in gratitude, for the hope that someone like this gives to all of us. I thanked him from my heart.
This was another Cambodian adventure that has rocked my life. You cannot be unaffected by what happens in this country. It is truly remarkable.
It is late evening now, when Phnom Penh has cooled off just enough to feel comfortable. I am sitting at the table with RuHong and her friend Yen-Ling, RuHong’s friend from Taiwan who is an ‘almost famous’ anthropologist (I believe I told you all of this before!). I am always one of the last to bed and the first up. It’s too exciting being here to miss any of the action. People go to bed early in Phnom Penh. By 9pm there is quiet all around, and always a kind of deathly hush that surrounds this area from Toul Sleng Genocide museum directly across the road from the guest house. I like to be here so close to the constant reminder of the horror that has happened in this country.
Tomorrow is sadly our last day. We have some last things to do in the morning. In the afternoon we will be teaching the young men from the Boddhi Tree Guest houses. We will use the stage at Savanah Poon (the small theater where we saw the shadow puppets). Manuel the owner of the Boddhi Tree guest houses, is treating each of us to a 1 ½ hr massage in return for teaching his young men. I am sure it will be another amazing day.